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I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.! 



tfom&fa*$. _| 

i UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. J 



NO TOURIST SHOULD FAIL TO HAVE THIS BOOK WHEN VISITING 

LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN. 

PICTURES OF LIFE IN CAMP AND FIELD, 

By Benjamin F. Taylor, l2mo. Cloth, $1,50. 



The description of Hooker's battle "above the clouds** is one of the grandest pieces; of 
word-painting in the English language. — Peoria Transcript, 
Here, all the preliminary plans and movements, as well as the actual attack and capture of 

LOOKOUT IlVLOUnSTT^IiT, 

and the splendid and daring acts of valor and patriotism displayed during these ever mem- 
orable davs are fully described These chapters are really master sketches. — Pliiladel- 
phia Inquirer. 

Each of these sketches is a gem in itself. One may search the annals of war from Taci- 
tus to Kinglake, and not find anything finer than "Three November Days, 11 "The Thea- 
ter,' 1 '"The Smiting of the Shield," ' The Capture of Lookout Mountain," 1 "The Storming 
of Mission Ridge.'* "Thanksgiving at Chattanooga,"'' and "After the Battle. 1 ' * We are 
much mistaken if Mr. Taylor's letters do not create a profound impression in the literary 
world, and take their place at once among the richest pieces of descriptive writing in the 
language. — Inter Ocean. ^ 

J^gp^Sold by all Booksellers, or will be mailed postpaid on receipt of the price, # 1,50, by 
the publishers, 

iS. C. GRIGGS k CO., '25 Washington St , Chicago. 



LOOKOUT 

One of the most Pleasant, Beautiful and Healthful Sum- 
mer Resorts. 

MOUNTAIN 

Lookout Mountain, Tenn. Finest Scenery in the Country. 

HOUSE. 



Address for particulars, G. W. Arnold, Proprietor, Chatta- 
nooga, Tennessee. 



GUIDE BOOK 



TO 



LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN 




AND 

BRIEF ACCOUNT OF BATTLES FOUGHT NEAR 

CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE. 



BY CLARENCE W. BAKEK. 






CHATTANOOGA, TENN. 

C. W. BAKER, PUBLISHER. 

1876. 



- ■ p ■ 

9.' 






Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1S76. 

By Clarence W. Baker, 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



A TRIP TO LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN. 



The village of Chattanooga, lying among the mountains 
of East Tennessee, has grown into a thriving and prosperous 
city — "The Pittsburgh of the South", as its enterprising cit- 
izens call it and fancy it will prove to be in the near future. 
It has passed through war, famine (during the siege of '63, 
when -Gen. Thomas' men tightened up their belts a hole 
each day, and mules lived, or died rather, upon a sparse 
diet of fence rails and wagon tongues) flood and fire, and 
still lives and flourishes as perhaps no other city in the 
South does — enterprise and vim will win. By the way, 
the Indian name ot the city does not mean "Eagle's Nest", 
or k> Hawk's Nest," as certain veracious newspaper corres- 
pondents would have it. Those who have given the sub- 
ject attention say it was originally the name of a small 
Indian village, situated on the bank of a creek of the same 
name, near the base of Lookout Mountain. The word 
means, in the Cherokee dialect, "to draw a fish out of 
water", and hence the name was given to the village of 
Indian fishermen. It was then very appropriate, but, 
when given to the town built by white men lost its mean- 
ing — although it is unique and musical, as most Indian 
names are. 

Old residents of the city say, however, that the word, 
which was the original name of the mountain, has no mean- 



4 

ing — at least the most intelligent Cherokees could give 
none, when interrogated on the subject. There is in the 
city, on the south bank of the river, a high limestone bluff 
in which the eagles were wont to build their nests. This 
bluff was called by the Indians Cla na iva — " The Eagle 
Cliff." From this title may have sprung the poetic fiction 
as to the meaning of* the city's name. 

Chattanooga was famous in the history of the late civil 
war, and many travelers stop here a day or two to visit 
points of interest in the record of the war for the Union. 
Chiefest among these is 

LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN, 

which lies two miles to the southwest, its brow overlooking 
the city and surrounding country. Upon its steep sides 
was fought the " battle above the clouds", which has been 
frequently described in eloquent prose and glowing poetry 
and put upon canvass by an eminent artist. 

Traditions vary as to why it is called "Lookout." One 
is that the mountain is supposed to look at Sand Mountain, 
a few miles to the west. Another is that the Indians were 
wont to climb to this lofty peak and from it to look out for 
flatboats descending the river — the "noble red man" having 
in view the capture of such boats, and appropriation of 
their contents. Our illustration represents such a look out. 
Since the Indians were obliged to succumb to "manifest 
destiny" and "go west", how many white men have been 
photographed standing on this same spot. Generals, pri- 
vate soldiers, and civilians — their name is legion. And the 



opportunity still exists. No more acceptable souvenir of 
a trip to the mountain could be imagined than a good pho- 
tograph of the visitor, with this grandest of backgrounds. 
Mr. Linn, who has a gallery at the Point, is a fine artist, 
has worked there for many years, and thoroughly under- 
stands all the conditions necessary to securing a good pic- 
ture in the open air. 

The Mountain may be spoken of as a gigantic ridge, 
heavily wooded, sloping at a pretty stiff angle, with bowl- 
ders of all shapes and sizes strewn about in great numbers, 
and crowned by a precipitous ledge averaging seventy-five 
feet in height, surmounting which is a comparatively level 
plateau, ranging from one to seven miles in width. The 
mountain runs to the southward some eighty-five miles, 
until it strikes the Coosa river. It is crossed in forty-two 
miles by only three practicable roads, through which Gen. 
Rosecrans marched the divisions of his army, when \he 
thought the Confederates retreating to Rome, Ga. \ 

A good road, winding as it best may to ease the grade, 
leads up the side of the mountain — two miles from the 
w *Half-Way House" to the summit. Arriving at the pla- 
teau the visitor turns to the north, and sees at his left a 
number of white cottages grouped near a hotel. This 
charming spot was known before the war as " Summer- 
town," and was a favorite summer resort for the wealthy 
people of the valleys and the level country lying farther 
south. The bluflonly a few rods in front is here one hun- 
dred and twenty-five feet high, and the view from it is very 



6 
beautiful. Pushing on in search of a still grander prospect 
a ride of about a mile brings one to 

POINT LOOKOUT. 

Here a panorama is spread out before one at which he 
may gaze until he is wearied — he cannot be satiated. The 
view is said by many who have made the -'grand tour" to 
be unexcelled in Europe. It certainly lacks nothing to 
make it picturesque, and perhaps no mountain peak looks 
down upon more or more desperate batHe fields. 

The "Point" juts out abruptly, and overhangs its base; 
so that the spectator standing on it is poised in mid air. 
From it, on a clear day, he looks into seven States — North 
and South Carolina, Virginia, Kentucky, Alabama, Ten- 
nessee, and Georgia. Ridge above ridge, mountain beyond 
mountain, rolls a billowy sea as far as the eye can reach. 
But a short distance away lies Chattanooga, spread out in 
full view, dwarfed by the distance until one could fancy it 
the home of pigmies. Commanding as it does the valleys 
in every direction its military title " The Gateway of the 
South," seems particularly appropriate. 

Almost at the feet of the gazer, apparently — but really 
fifteen hundred feet below him — lies the noble Tennessee 
river. The name is supposed to mean '* Big-Spoon'', and 
was given by the Indians to the river on account of its 
windings and general shape. Immediately in front the 
river makes large bends and forms " Moccasin Point " a 
very easily traced representation of an Indian moccasin, as 
perfect in shape as need be. He would indeed be a "big 




POINT LOOKOUT. 



7 

Indian " that could wear such an one — no " seven league 
boot" could be larger. 

Immediately at the toot of the " Point Lookout" — the 
northern termination of the precipitous ledge already spo- 
ken of — the underlying ridge slopes for a short distance at 
an angle of nearly forty-live degrees and then descends 
more gradually towards the river, perhaps a mile away. 
Before reaching it the slope ends in an abrupt precipice, , a t 
the loot of which, b( tween the rocky escarpment and the 
Tennessee, runs the track of the Nashville & Chattanooga 
Railroad. A short distance above the top of the ledge 
the wagon road runs around the "nose" of the mountain 
westwardly. About where the slope grows more easy 
lies a faun house, owned and occupied by a Mr. Cravens. 
A similar house once stood here but was destroyed during 
the war. Its owner occupied it until it had been struck 
by eight shells, when he removed, doubtless thinking "dis- 
cretion the better part of valor." Around the house and 
over the grounds and orchard surrounding it swept the 
tide of battle as Hooker's men pushed forward and upward 
with fierce earnestness. 

On the west is Sand Mountain; between the two moun- 
tains lies Lookout Valley, up which Hooker and his com- 
mand marched to assist in raising the siege of Chattanooga 
after Chickamauga, striving to shorten the line of com- 
munication and thus help in getting supplies to the nearly 
starved army holding Bragg at bay. 

To the east, beyond Chattanooga Valley, lies Mission 



8 
Ridge — so called from the missionaries who made their 
homes near it, and labored for the religious and temporal 
welfare of the Cherokees, Through this valley flows Chat- 
tanooga Creek, which was for a part of its length the divi- 
ding line between the pickets of the opposing armies. 

To the east of Mission Ridge, and running parallel with 
it, is Chickamauga Valley, in which was fought one of the 
bloodiest and most hotly contested battles of the war. 
Through the valley runs Chickamauga Creek, called fre- 
quently by imaginative correspondents " The River of 
Death." This is evidently a misnomer. The Cherokee 
names were beautiful, and generally had a meaning, and 
we are not left in doubt as to the signification of this one. 
The word uma signifies water — Chiclc-wrna-ga means dull, 
sluggish water, or dead water. 

After gazing out upon this "Switzerland of America" 
until the eye is wearied and the brain swims, the spectator 
turns unwillingly away from his survey of the landscape, 
crowded with points of historic interest, and seeks minor 
details, which are interesting in themselves, aside from their 
surroundings. A little to the left and rear is 

ROPER'S ROCK, 

a point of the cliff, facing west. It is so called in memory 
of a man named Roper, a member of the 78th Penn., who 
fell from this rock and was killed. Near it is a practicable 
ascent, where by hard climbing at some little risk a man 
can clamber up. By this way came, on the morning after 
Hooker's battle, Capt. Wilson and seven men of the 8th 



9 
Ky., who displayed the stars and stripes from the peak — 

that the army in Chattanooga might be sure who held the 
mountain. From this rock, a short time previous, Gen. 
Bragg's signal officer wrote in fiery characters orders to 
Gen. Longstreet's command which was making a midnight 
attack on Hooker's men in the valley below. Unfortu- 
nately for Bragg and Longstreet the signals were known 
to the union officers — dispositions were made accordingly, 
and the attack failed ot its object. 

A path leads along the cliff and near its face to a narrow 
cleft in the ledge in which is placed a rude pair of stairs 
at the foot of which the path runs along under the base of 
the rocks until it strikes a dark, cool spring, hidden away 
from the sun and heat. Many people climb these stairs 
in preference to the more dangerous path up which the 
flag bearers went with their banner of good omen to signal 
the army waiting and watching below for news from the 
battle-field. 

Within a few steps of the "Point" are "Umbrella 
Rock " and " Table Rock ", whose shapes suggest their 
names. Next comes 

PULPIT ROCK, 

a singularly shaped column, with a small cave at its base. 
From its summit Jeff. Davis is said to have made a speech 
to the confederates on the mountain, at the time when the 
union army were besieged in Chattanooga. He is reported 
to have said that he ki had the Yankees just where he 
wanted them" — thinking, doubtless, that they would be 



io 
starved into submission and surrender. But 

"The best laid schemes of mice and men 

Gaag :if't ngley — 
And leave us naught hut grief and pain 

For promised j<>y." 

The events of a few weeks later dispelled his dreams. 

But a few rods to the east of the spot where carriages 
generally stop may still be seen the slight earthwork^and 
embrasures which served to shield the confederate battery 
which from this elevated post threw shells at and into the 
camps in Chattanooga — never doing any great damage, 
however. It used frequently to have artillery duels with 
the union battery on Moccasin Point, to the greater edifi- 
cation of the spectators than the participants — as is proba- 
bly the case in all other duels. 

Near the battery was the signal starion. A tree of suit- 
able size and location had been selected, the top cut off 
and a platform built on what was left of the lower limbs. 
From this rude observatory keen eyed officers kept watch 
and communicated intelligence of any movements of the 
union troops — waving flags by day and lanterns or torches 
at night. 

Perhaps half a mile back from the " Point", near a neat 
and once handsome cottage which is going rapidly to de- 
cay, having been unoccupied for years, is " Saddle Rock", 
shown in our illustration. It is somewhat uncouth in gen- 
eral shape and outline, but may have been adapted to some 
pre-historic quadruped. 




SADDLE ROCK 



11 
From the cliff a short distance to the north the observer 
gets the 

"grand view ", 
which perhaps is inferior only to the one from the "Point." 
For that matter, all views from the mountain, on either side, 
are " grand." Each varies from the others, as each is from 
a different stand-point, but all are worthy careful study and 
life long remembrance. Near by is 

TURTLE ROCK, 

looking not unlike a huge mud-turtle, or terrapin, hunting 
for water. It isn't edible, and would not make good soup 
— would require too much boiling. 

To the right of the road, returning fiom the " Point", is 
bragg's fort, 
constructed and garrisoned by the Confederate troops — 
a square earthwork, the magazine of which has fallen in. 
Following the road to the right, overgrown as it is, one 
comes to an old field, on the farther side of which are woods. 
Through them runs a path down a steep descent to 

SUNSET ROCK, 

from which a glorious prospect bursts upon the view. The 
cliff is here about 250 feet high, and never did a worship- 
per of the sun gaze upon a more gorgeous going down of 
his idol than he could see from this rock. 

Retracing his steps to the main road and going "south 
the tourist soon reaches the 

LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN HOUSE, 

situated at the point where the road from the city reaches 



12 

the summit of the mountain. Right in front of and over- 
hanging the toll-gate, was 

bragg's rock, 
a cliff with an estimated weight of 6.000 tons, which began 
to cleave at its summit in March, '76. The cleft grew 
wider: the road was obstructed by falling fragments of rock ; 
people built fires and sat up nights to see it fall — but it fell 
not. Finally, jackscrews, levers and blasting powder were 
used as arguments, and the cliff toppled and fell — and 
oreat was the fall thereof. Immense fragments of rock 
crashed down the mountain side below, lopping off under- 
brush, and decapitating trees as if they had been weeds. 

Just adjoining the fallen cliff is 

lovers' rock, 
at its edge is "Lovers' Chair' 1 , in which one can sit — espec- 
ially a "lover" of Nature, and study at his ease her glorious 
handiwork. 

Between this rock and the one next north is 

ALUM SPRING PASS, 

a fissure several feet wide, through which footmen and 
horsemen can ascend. Through it, while the road was ob- 
structed, came visitors, leaving their carriages behind them. 
A few rods to the north of its foot is 

ALUM SPRING, 

hidden away in a rocky bowl under the overhanging cliff. 
The water is beautifully clear, cool and pure, with no taste 
of alum. Why the name should be given it is a matter of 
conjecture. 



■3 

Passing to the hotel so near at hand, one is ready to ex- 
plore 

HIGH IAN I) GLEN. 

And right here we may say that we have the word of a 
photographer of fifteen years' experience in taking stereo- 
scopic views — who during that time has traveled much and 
far — for the assertion that the scenery here is superior in 
point of picturesqueness and natural beauty to the famous 
* Watkins Glen" in New York This artist is capable by 
education, experience and natural taste, of expressing a crit- 
ical opinion, and one that should carry weight. 

Under the guidance of mine-host Arnold, or Mr. Frank 
Lyman, the visitor prepares to explore the Glen. Perhaps 
the better way is to clamber down the side ot the gorge 
passing on the way and pausing to get his 'second wind" at 

SLATE CLIFFS, 

twin pillars of brown slate stone, which stand as they have 
stood for ages, facing the Glen and the valley at its mouth. 
Pursuing his downward course — and, by the way, the ex- 
plorer needs to be quick of loot, sure of eye, and not afraid 
of his clothes — one calls a halt at 

CORKSCREW FALLS 

Here the stream makes a plunge of about thirty feet. In 
its descent it strikes a projecting shelf and crosses upon it- 
self, suggesting a corkscrew — hence hb name. At its loot 
is a beautiful pool, and one cannot imagine a better place 
to take a shower bath and a swim. * 

From this point to the valley, about half a mile away. 



H 
the descent is still steep, with cascades of all sizes at short 
distances apart. Perhaps the most notable, which is un- 
named, should be called 

FOUNTAIN CASCADE. 

The water here pours upon a round rock and flows from it 
on all sides — the general effect being not unlike a fountain. 

Turning his face to the head of the Glen, the visitor be- 
gins the ascent. All kinds of lowers flourish in the great- 
est abundance, and among them we may name : Wild 
Pansies; Azaleas; Shrub and Climbing Honeysuckles, of 
all colors; Alicanthus; Kalmia, or Mountain Laurel; Dog 
wood: Trailing Arbutus; Lilies, white and blue; Holly: 
Moss Pink; Partridge Berry; Golden Seal i — their name 
is legion. And as for ferns : there are probably fifty sorts. 
A botanist or lover of flowers would go wild^with delight 
at the prospect before him, and perhaps neglect the other 
features of the Glen 

Following the brook up its rocky channel, one comes to 

BASTION FALLS. 

The stream here plunges over and around a rocky bastion. 
But a short distance above is 

GARDEN ROCK, 

the foot of which projects over the brook. Passing under 
it and through a fissure between it and an adjoining bowl- 
der, one clambers to its top. It is covered with beautiful 
flowering mosses, thickly spattered with superb flowers, and 
ferns of all kinds. It slopes like a roof, and hides the 
brook at its base. 



15 

Descending from this fairy garden and climbing up the 
pass one comes to a beautiful little fall, which deserves to 
be christened 



LACE CASCADE. 



No "Honiton", "Mechlin" or old "Point" can show more 
delicace tracery than is here woven in this gossamer sheet 
of sparkling water This is a favorite spot for pic-nickers 
to visit. One can hardly see the sun here when the trees 
are in full leaf. The air is delightfully cool, and the cas- 
cade makes the sweetest of music. Nothing can be more 
pleasant, and nowhere can you better " Loafe and invite 
thy soul " — as Walt Whitman has it. Through the glen 
at various places is found the 

devil's walking stick. 
Don't touch it, or you may use with emphasis the name 
of his satanic majesty. It is thickly covered with thorns, 
and a camel wouldn't attempt to eat it — which is saying a 
great deal. 

This part of the way is called 

JORDAN ROAD. 

and well named, as it is emphatically a "hard road to trav- 
el" — rocky and rough to the last degree. One can better 
appreciate it after traversing it. We come presently to 
what should be named 

SURPRISE CASCADE, 

but for that matter, each succeeding cascade is a fresh sur- 
prise. They are so graceful, and so unlike. The water 
nymphs are lavish in the display of their beauties. Climb- 



i6 
ing still over rocks as he best may, the explorer comes 
finally to 

BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, 

the crowning glory of the Glen. It does not compare in 
height to its namesake in the Yosemite, but is as beautiful 
in its way. A narrow stream filters through between the 
bowlders in its path, and spreads out on a terraced ledge, 
coming down in a glittering sheet with an airy broidery 
aud beauty of form and outline that well suggests its name, 
Never maiden wore a bridal veil more beautiful, and if the 
customary orange flowers are lacking, their place is more 
than filled — there is no lack of others and perhaps as beau- 
tiful ones; the Glen is full of them. 
Above the "Veil" are the 

FIVE FALLS, 

cascades one above the other, all in view at once — each a 
gem worthy of its setting. 

Clambering out and upward the visitor reaches the sum- 
mit of the mountain plateau, and- wends his way to his 
starting point bearing with him memories of the picturesque 
and beautiful in nature which will never fade. 

It is but fair to say that the little stream which flows 
through the Glen follows the example of all other moun- 
tain brooks, and becomes "small by degrees and beautifully 
loss" as the summer heats grow apace. The Alum Spring 
as it grows lower deposits crystals of alum on its rocky 
brim, and thus proves itself well named. 

The next "lion" to be viewed is "Rock City." Passing 



*7 

west from "Highland Cottage", after traversing a few hun- 
dred yards the road turns to the left. A pedestrian should 
follow the path going west, which ascends the hill, through 
the underbrush, and comes out at a square white house- 
Beyond it but a few rods is the 

NATURAL BRIDGE, 

a rocky arch, with a span of about fifty feet. Between it 
and the parent ledge a little brook falls into a pool and 
steals away as a "branch." Behind the pool lies a fine 
spring. Just to the right of the Bridge is the 

' OLD MAN OF THE MOUNTAIN, 

a rocky bust with the ledge as a pedestal From the right 
point of view the resemblance is complete. The " Old 
Man" wears a wig and cue, as did the old Continentals, 
and the present " Centennial" marks but a brief period in 
his existence. 

Returning to the main road and following it but a short 
distance one crosses a brook which is on its way to the 
Glen below. It forms just below the bridge a most beau- 
tiful cascade, and goes on its way singing 

•' I chatter, chatter as I flow 

To join the brimming river — 
For men may come and men may go, 

But I tfow on forever." 

But a little way beyond another is crossed. Both were 
at one time forced into the military service, and made to 
turn saw mills, ruins of which are still to be seen. One 
could as well fancy Pegasus yoked to a plow. The trav- 



i8 
eler has now reached a number of brown two-story build- 
ings with porches above and below — the 

officers' hospital, 
built in 1864, by "Uncle Sam", for the use and benefit of 
his officers in this vicinity who might be wounded, sick or 
disabled in his service. It was thought that in this bracing 
atmosphere, with all these beautiful surroundings, conva- 
lescence would be rapid, — and experience justified the 
belief. After the war these buildings were bought by a 
private party, and a school — "Lookout Mountain Educa- 
tional Institutions" — kept there foi some years. One can 
well believe that the boys and girls of the school explored 
thoroughly and persistently every nook and glen of their 
surroundings, and knew by name every rock anywhere 
near them. 

If one is on foot he should follow the garden fence, and 
turning at its corner bear off diagonally to the left, follow- 
ing a plainly marked path. This would leave 

SENTINEL ROCKS 

to his left, in the glen. By making a shorter turn a path 
is found which leads between these monster sentinels, who 
are always on duty and never grumble — as mortal sentinels 
are apt to. Pursuing his way the pedestrian soon reaches 

THE GATEWAY, 

and never was gateway more unique. The avenue runs 
between rocks of all sizes and shapes, which make it indeed 
a royal road. Passing through a ravine and across a little 
"branch", one comes to 



'9 

ROCK VILLAGE, 

an outlying suburb of the weird "City". The road comes 
in here from the right, through the ruins of a camp 
wherein a "regular" brigade was quartered for a time dur- 
ing the war. 

A breastwork was built near here by the confederates 
during their occupancy. It ran across the mountain, and 
had near its right a fort mounting six guns. The battle 
near the Point flanked it as a matter of course, and the 
work on it proved to be "love's labor lost." 

In this "Village" of rocks are bowlders in a very great 
variety of queer shapes. An imaginative man with a good 
vocabulary at his command can devise for himself names 
for the more noticeable formations, 

About a third of a mile farther on one comes to 

ROCK CITY, 

proper. It is a "city" of wonders. Great rocks, grim and 
hoary, carved into fantastic forms by the storms of centu- 
ries, are scattered about in all directions. One can fancy 
that the Indians, with their traditions and beliefs, had ap- 
propriate names for these picturesque rocks, strewn about 
in such profusion, and legends concerning the more prom- 
inent ones. Two men see the same object differently : — 
To one, a rock might seem " very like a whale "; to the 
other it might be "backed like a camel." It is perhaps as 
well for each visitor to trace resemblances for himself, and 
give titles accordingly. 

Perhaps a quarter of a mile beyond the Ct City " is 



20 
CHICKAMAUGA CLIFF, 

some 400 feet high, overlooking the valley and ridge — 
beyond which was fought the dreadful battle of Chicka- 
mauga. Had the spectator stood here on those fatetul 
September days, he would have heard 

"The terrible grumble and rumble and roar, 
Telling the battle was on once more," 

and perhaps have followed, by the noise of the conflict, 
the varying fortunes of the contestants. 

LULAH LAKE AND FALLS 

are "next in suit." To see them necessitates a rather hard 
ride or walk, which will repay in its results the fatigue or 
discomfort attending it. 

A pedestrian by bearing off to the south-west, keeping 
at the right of the gorges, will reach, in a couple of miles, 
a point on the creek some distance below the falls, seeing 
first them and then the lake — thus reversing the usual 
order. 

Visitors in carriages, returning to the abandoned encamp- 
ment, get from that "deserted village" a beautiful view of 

HIGH POINT, 

some miles south. It is a handsome peak, with a notch 
near its summit, bears a family resemblance to pictures of 
volcanoes, and is in itself a perfect mountain view, worth 
riding far to see. 

A short distance west of the camp the road runs to the 
south, and in a little ways bends to the right, and goes 
near the western edge of the mountain, until it reaches the 



21 

"Widow Stedman's " and there turns to the left, and runs 
directly to the' lake and falls. This, though a little longer, 
is the better way and most quickly and easily traversed, 
proving once more the truth of the old proverb: " The 
longest way 'round is the shortest way" — to any point. 

ROCK CREEK, 

rising some five or six miles to the south, flows on until, 
running down in a little "rapids" it spreads out into 

LULAH LAKE, 

- — or lakelet, as it might better be called — a fairy sheet of 
water, perhaps a hundred yards long by seventy-five wide : 
a sapphire gem in a rocky setting. Crossing the creek on 
stepping stones, 'and following it about one hundred and 
fifty yards, 

LULAH FALLS 

are reached. The stream here gathers itself for a leap, and 
plunges more than a hundred feet down 



"Filling the gorge with sound. 

Coo 



Sound of waters rushing." 

It is more handsome, graceful and picturesque than "Min- 
nehaha" and its surroundings are all in keeping with it. 
From the cliff by its side a path, rough but practicable, 
leads down to its foot, and once there the spectator can 
study at his ease this beautiful fall. The stream pursues 
its way down the gorge. If one is a mountaineer he can 
follow the creek on its course — but very few do, although 
the scramble would be an interesting one. 

Returning to the hotel one feels sure that "something 



22 
attempted, something done has earned" — a hearty dinner. 
Nowhere can one acquire a better appetite — mountain air 
and exercise are provocative of hunger. 

LOOKOUT CAVE 

opens our on the railroad, under the precipice by the river. 
An adventurous explorer can press his way into its cavern- 
ous recesses perhaps no one knows how far. Traditions 
are rife that skeletons have been found in it. The most 
notable feature of it, to many, is the view out of it. The 
river, the field beyond, and the mountains in the distance, 
focused as they are by the rocky mouth of the cave, make 
a most beautiful picture. 

THE PROPER WAY 

to see Lookout Mountain is to spend some time on it. 
Each day will develope new beauties and places of interest 
to be visited, until one is reluctantly obliged to leave be- 
hind him all but the memories of an exceedingly pleasant 
stay. 

AS A SUMMER RESORT 

few places are its equal. The accommodations are good, 
the temperature is several degrees cooler than in the val- 
leys; a fresh and delightful breeze blows daily; the nights 
are cool and pleasant; mosquitos are a "minus quantity"; 
and Chattanooga lies close at hand and easy of access. In 
no place can one spend to better advantage all or part of 
his summer vacation. 




CLIFF AT BASE OF MOUNTAIN. 



2 3 
BATTLES AROUND CHATTANOOGA. 



Chattanooga, the "Citadel of East Tennessee ", was early 
in the war recognized by the Union commanders as an im- 
portant point to be secured, being as it proved the key of 
this section, and the terminus of four important railway 
lines 

Late in May, 1862, Gen. O. M. Mitchell, then in com- 
mand of all the troops between Nashville and Huntsville, 
put in motion an expedition under command* of Gen. Neg- 
ley, which advanced to the north bank of the Tennessee, 
opposite Chattanooga, arriving there June 7th. During 
that evening and the next morning the command shelled 
the city, making a feint of'crossing the river and assaulting 
the place, and then withdrew. The main advantage of 
this movement was the derangement of the enemy's plans 
at the time. 

About the middle of August, 1863. some weeks after 
the Tullahoma campaign had ended, Gen. Rosecrans, then 
in command of the "Army of the Cumberland ", moved it 
against the Confederate force south of the Tennessee. The 
obstacles intervening were many and serious, but they were 
overcome, and early in September the army lay along the 
western slope of Lookout Mountain, from Wauhatchie, six 
miles from Chattanooga, to Valley Head, forty miles away. 
To get the enemy out of Chattanooga it was necessary to 
carry the "nose" of the mountain, or to move through the 



2 4 
gaps in it farther south, and thus endanger Gen. Bragg's 

line of communications. The latter plan was chosen, and 
a part of the army was ordered to cross the mountain at 
Trenton and Valley Head, the left meanwhile threatening 
the city until the movements of the enemy should reveal 
his course of action. These operations induced the evac- 
uation by the Confederates of Chattanooga, which was oc- 
cupied by the Union troops Sept. 8th. It was thus won 
by strategy, without a battle or heavy skirmish. 

Gen. Rosecrans was led to believe by concurring testi- 
mony that the enemy was falling back on Rome, Ga., and 
made his dispositions for pursuit accordingly. In truth the 
Confederate army had retreated only to Lafayette, with its 
right resting at Gordon's Mills, 12 miles from Chattanooga. 
Rosecrans did not learn this fact until Sept. 12th, and then 
it became with him a matter of the most vital necessity to 
effect a concentration of his army, the three corps of which 
were respectively at Chickamauga Creek, Stevens' Gap 
and Alpine — a distance of 57 miles from flank to flank. 
By the 18th — Bragg doing nothing serious to prevent — this 
concentration was effected, and the Union army 1-ay in Mc- 
Lemore's Cove, on the west side of Chickamauga Creek, 
covering Chattanooga. On the 19th and 20th the battle of 

CHICKAMAUGA 

was fought. It is impossible, in the limits of this little 
work, to give a detailed description of it. The first day's 
fight was practically a drawn battle ; the engagement on 
the second day was a serious defeat to the Union army, 



25 
which defeat might have proved a grave disaster but for 

Gen. Thomas, who with a force representing all the corps 
of the army, repeatedly repulsed the Confederate assaults, 
and covered the withdrawal of the remainder of the army 
to Chattanooga, his command falling back to Rossville 
that night, and irom thence to the city, without molest- 
ation. 

Chaplain Van Home, in his "History of the Army of 
the Cumberland" gives a complete account of this battle. 
According to this book, to which we are indebted for many 
interesting facts, the Confederate army, as admitted by 
Gen. Bragg in his official report, lost two-fifths of its num- 
ber. It may be assumed, from the best data, that this force 
was about 70,000 men — the Union army numbered some 
56,000. Its reported aggregate loss was 16,336. A Con- 
federate general, who commanded ten brigades during the 
battle declared that he '* had never seen Federal troops 
fight as well, and had never seen Confederate troops fight 
better." 

A few facts will attest the bloody nature of the combat- 
Gen. Longstreet's loss in one day, and principally in the 
afternoon, was 36 per cent. A Kentucky brigade went 
into action with 1 763 men, and came out numbering 432. 
Bate's brigade lost 608 men out of 108^. A brigade from 
Mississippi lost 781 men, and had but two regimental offi- 
cers unhurt. Other brigades lost at least half their num- 
ber. In the Union army Sheridan's and Davis' divisions 
lost more than 40 per cent, of their strength. Steedman's 



26 
two brigades lost 44 per cent.; Johnson's brigade lost 1629; 
Palmer's, 1329; Brannan's, 2144; Baird's, 2213. 

(The traveler who wishes to visit this battle ground can 
go by the "Dry Valley" road to Crawfish Spring, at which 
parts of both armies slaked their thirst during the conflict, 
and to which many of the wounded crawled to satisfy their 
craving for water. Returning, one should follow the road 
through the gap to Rossville — which 4W ville" consists of a 
log house, said to be a hundred years old, the former home 
of John Ross, chief of the Cherokees. Along the road the 
scarred and shattered trees still show where war's dread 
lightning has riven them. Traces of breastworks may still 
be seen, and if one is a veteran who fought there he can 
strive to find where his command were.) 

After the Union army had fallen back into Chattanooga 
it had the river in its rear and on either flank. The Con- 
federates followed and invested the town, thinking to com- 
pel the surrender of the place and its defenders, and thus 
began the 

SIEGE OF CHATTANOOGA. 

The Confederate line stretched from the river above the 
town along the summit and base of Mission Ridge, across 
Chattanooga Valley to the western slope of Lookout, with 
pickets for miles up and down the river. Gen. Rosecrans' 
objects were to hold the pontoon bridges at the town and 
present a strong line to the enemy. He did not attempt 
to hold the river below Chattanooga, the railroad, or Look- 
out. 



The besieged army was in a perilous position. The 
Confederates, from their position on Lookout, commanded 
the roads on the north and south bank of the river, the 
stream itself, and the line of railroad along which reenforce- 
ments would come. How to feed and supply the Union 
army was a question of grave importance. Supply trains 
were forced to move over Wallen's Ridge, into and down 
Sequatchie Valley to Bridgeport, distant 60 miles by this 
route. The Union cavalry, deployed in an attenuated 
line along the north bank of the river, could not well 
guard all the fords, and Gen. Wheeler, the Confederate 
cavalry leader, destroyed at one time 300 wagons loaded 
with supplies for the besieged. The constant and hard 
work rapidly killed mules, and as their number diminished 
fewer and smaller loads could be drawn; rations were re- 
duced, numbers of artillery horses died for lack of forage, 
and it seemed as if the Army of the Cumberland would be 
forced to surrender or retreat with a loss of its material. 
It would not surrender, so accepted the shortest rations. 

In October the 11th and 12th corps, Army of the Poto- 
mac, under command of Gen. Hooker, were sent to this 
department, and posted along the line of the Nashville & 
Chattanooga Railroad, as far south as Bridgeport, Ala. 
The new comers were not yet needed at Chattanooga, as it 
was a sufficiently hard matter to feed the troops already 
there, and the enemy was making no offensive demonstra- 
tions save cannonading from Lookout — which was "full of 
sound and fury, signifying nothing." 



28 

An order issued by the President Oct. 18th created the 
" Military Division of the Mississippi ", with Gen. Grant 
in command. The same order relieved Gen. Rosecrans, 
and placed Gen. Thomas at the head of the Army of the 
Cumberland. Gen. Grant's first anxiety was as to supply- 
ing the army with provisions. He telegraphed to Gen. 
Thomas "'Hold Chattanooga at all hazards ", and asked as 
to the number of rations on hand. Gen. Thomas in reply 
gave the required information, and added "We will hold 
the town till we starve." 

Gen. Grant reached Chattanooga Oct. 23d. A plan had 
been matured for securing a foothold for troops on the 
south bank of the river, by that means obtaining a shorter 
line to Bridgeport and opening the river. The plan was 
submitted to him, approved, and ordered put into execu- 
tion. On the morning of the 27th a fleet of pontoon boats 
manned by 1500 infantry soldiers, floated nine miles, to 
Brown's Ferry, at the mouth of Lookout Valley, landed, 
and after a slight skirmish, threw up works, sufficiently 
strong to protect them. Other troops were brought over, 
and the lodgment was made. 

Gen. Hooker, on the same morning, advanced from 
Bridgeport along the line of railroad. He moved as far as 
Wauhatchie — in fact, a part of his command went into 
camp within a mile of the ferry which had been taken that 
morning. During the night Gen. Longstreet attacked an 
isolated division of Hooker's force at Wauhatchie, but 
failed to drive them or do them material harm. 



29 

This new state of affairs greatly simplified the supply 
problem. A steamboat ran the Lookout Mountain block- 
ade on the 28th, and one from Bridgeport soon came up 
loaded with rations. Good roads were made to Brown's 
and Kelly's ferries, and work was begun on the railroad 
bridge at Bridgeport, and the road east of that point. The 
raising of the siege became only a question of time. 

The Confederate force still maintained its line of invest- 
ment, but made no movement of offense while the Union 
army was preparing to assault it. Gen. Grant was busily 
engaged in moving up reenforcements and supplies. All 
the troops that could be spared from the rear were ordered 
forward, and Gen. Sherman's command was ordered to move 
up as rapidly as possible. At this juncture Gen. Bragg 
detached Longstreet's corps to operate in East Tennessee, 
against Gen. Burnside. Upon Gen. Sherman's arrival he 
crossed at Brown's Ferry, and passed to a point on the 
north bank opposite the end of Missionary Ridge, in pur- 
suance of Grant's plan, which was to mass his forces as 
much as possible at one given point, converging to the 
northern extremity of the Ridge. 

On the 20th Gen. Bragg sent a formal note stating that 
prudence would suggest an early removal of all non-com- 
batants from the city. On the 23d several divisions of the 
Union army formed in line of battle in plain view of their 
opponents who thought that the demonstration might be 
meant as a parade, or a movement to obtain wood. The 
line soon swept forward and halted not until it had cap- 



3° 

tured and occupied "Orchard Knob" and other hills to its 
left and right. This "Knob" and the hills are about half- 
way between the Ridge and Chattanooga. They comprise 
nearly all of the high ground between Fort Wood and the 
Ridge, and afforded a good base for operations against the 
enemy's main lines beyond. The new position was at once 
fortified. One result of this movement was that Gen. 
Bragg moved a division from Lookout to his right, on the 
Ridge — in the rear of which lay his supplies — and thus 
weakened his left. 

On the next day, Nov. 24th, the 

BATTLE OF LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN 

famous as the "battle above the clouds", was fought by 
the troops under command of Gen. Hooker, whose com- 
mand — Gen. Osterhaus' division of the 15th corps, Gen. 
Geary's division of the 12th, and two brigades of Gen. 
Cruft's division of the 4th corps — were strangers to each 
other, but fought as if they had been comrades for years. 

The visitor should remember that the fighting was on 
the side of the mountain, below the plateau-crowned ledge, 
and not on the summit. On the open space east of the 
farm under the " Point", the enemy had made entrench- 
ments, rifle-pits, redoubts and barricades of stone to pre- 
vent movements from Chattanooga or Lookout Valley. 
An assaulting party, aside from the almost insurmountable 
cbstacles in its way, must force and carry these works — a 
well nigh impossible task, it would seem. 

Gen. Hooker sent a cavalry force up the valley to give 



3 l 

notice of any movement from that direction. Two light 
batteries, supported by infantry, were posted on the north 
side of the creek. Gen. Geary's division and one of Gen. 
Cruft's brigades were sent to Wauhatchie to cross the creek 
and sweep down its right bank, driving the enemy away, 
and serving to cover the crossing of the remaining forces. 
The main body of the enemy was posted on the western 
side of the mountain, his picket reserves in the valley be- 
low, and his picket line on the right bank of the creek. 

At 8 o'clock in the morning Gen. Geary's command 
crossed the creek, captured a number of the enemy's pick- 
ets, and pushed up the mountain until the right of the 
column came to the foot of the vertical cliff, to scale which 
was impossible. A heavy fog prevented the enemy from 
seeing this movement. The line faced north, its right at 
the palisade, and moved towards the enemy near the front 
of the mountain. Gen. Grose attacked at the same time 
the Confederates at the bridge, and began to repair it, hav- 
ing first driven away its defenders. A part of the enemy's 
troops nearest this point came down to the railroad embank- 
ment, from which, as from a breastwork, they could fire 
upon the Union troops Coming forward from the bridge — 
the remainder of the Confederates formed in front of their 
rifle pits and entrenchments. The loss of life in a direct 
advance from the bridge would have been large. Gen. 
Hooker ordered a crossing to be made farther up the creek 
with the woods as a cover. In the meantime additional 
artillery was so posted as to enfilade the enemy's positions. 



3 2 

Part of a brigade remained at the bridge to attract the at- 
tention of their adversaries. 

The bridge was finished at about 1 1 o'clock. Shortly 
after the Union troops, sweeping the mountain from its foot 
to the base of its rocky crest, came nobly on. The artillery 
opened a destructive fire. The Confederates were quickly 
routed, and the Union line moved on. The besieged in 
the city were of course anxious to know how the battle was 
progressing, and crowded all points from which a good 
view could be had. As the fog would partially lift the 
enemy could be seen retreating and the Union line advan- 
ing, its left lost to view on the side of the mountain, its 
right close under the palisade, climbing, in the face of a 
heavy fire, over rocks, logs and breastworks, but coming 
right on. It swung around to the middle of the open 
space, where the enemy met reenforcements and made a 
determined but vain 'effort to hold the position. They 
were forced back, and soon retreated down the eastern 
slope of the mountain. The heavy fighting ceased about 
two o'clock in the afternoon. The Union troops were out 
of ammunition, and no wagons could reach them. Gen. 
Hooker waited for more men and cartridges. A brigade 
of the 15th corps crossed Chattanooga creek at five o'clock 
and ascended to the Union right. The men carried with 
them ammunition for Hooker's skirmishers, in addition to 
their own supply. Severe skirmishing was kept up until 
about midnight. During the night the Confederates on the 
summit of the mountain came down, and, with the troops 



33 

in Hooker's front, fell back and took position on Mission 
Ridge. 

The Confederate divisions of Gens. Stevenson and Cheat- 
ham, under the command of the former, were engaged in 
this battle. Gtn. Cheatham came on the field late in the 
afternoon, having just rejoined the army. 

MISSION RIDGE. 

Gen. Sherman's troops had crossed the river on a pon- 
toon bridge on the 23d, and gained a position on the north 
end of the ridge, in front of the right of the Confederate 
line, which was strongly posted behind breastworks. 

Gen. Bragg's army was now on the ridge, and his line 
was but about half as long as it had at first been. Gens. 
Breckinridge and Hardee faced Thomas and Sherman. 
The battle was opened soon after sunrise on the 25th by 
an advance of a part of Gen. Sherman's command. The 
enemy's right was the chief point of attack. Both sides 
massed heavily in the vicinity of the tunnel — the Union 
troops desiring to force or turn the position, the Confede- 
rates striving to hold it. Although many and fierce as- 
saults were made by Sherman's men it was found impossi- 
ble to drive the enemy from this part of the line. 

Gen. Hooker had pushed on as far as Rossville, and had 
formed his line across the ridge, facing north, and extend- 
ing down on either slope. 

Finding that the enemy's right could not be turned or 
forced, Gen. Grant ordered an advance from the center of 
his line. Between 3 and 4 o'clock six cannon shots, from 



34 

the battery on Orchard Knob, were fired as a signal. The 
order looked only to the dislodgment of the Confederates 
from their first line of rifle pits and intrenchments at the 
foot of the ridge. The attack was made by four divisions, 
under command of Gens. Johnson, Sheridan, Wood and 
Baird. The troops assaulting moved gallantly forward in 
the face of a heavy artillery and infantry fire, swept away 
the enemy's pickets and reserves and captured the lower 
line of entrenchments. Thus they had executed their or- 
ders, but were not yet satisfied, and pressed on 

"Unheeding the storm of the shot and the shell, 
Unheeding the fate of their comrades who fell." 
So eager were they that the summit of the ridge was car- 
ried at six different points at almost the same time. The 
enemy's cannon was captured, and in some instances turned 
against him. Gen. Hooker's line soon swept northward, 
and then the ridge was clear of Confederates, save those 
— who fell back that night — in Gen. Sherman's front. 
Chattanooga, the "citadel of East Tennessee ", was won, 
and was aiterwards held securely by the Union forces. 



35 
NATIONAL MILITARY CEMETERY. 



This beautiful "City of the Dead" lies on a conical hill 
between Chattanooga and Mission Ridge, about the centre 
of a line drawn from Gen. Sherman's point of attack on the 
north end of the ridge, and Gen. Hooker's on the mountain. 
It was the first permanent cemetery established by military 
order, and was founded by Gen. Thomas, " In commemo- 
ration of the battles at Chattanooga * and to provide a 
resting place for the brave men who fell upon the fields 
fought over." The bodies of those who fell at Chicka- 
ma^uga, and of those who died in hospitals were removed 
to this ground. 

The cemetery is on a commanding spot. From it can 
be seen the points where many of the men buried in it 
were killed. It is beautifully laid out, in sections of dif- 
ferent sizes and shapes, and neatly kept. The summit of 
the hill is crowned by a flag staff. Around it at equal dis- 
tances are placed four siege guns, set on end in stone bases. 
On one of them is a bronze tablet, bearing the following 
inscription : 

UNITED STATES 
NATIONAL MILITARY CEMETERY. 

Established, 1863. 

Interments, 12,876 

Known, 7>947 

Unknown, 4>9 2 9 



36 

The graves of the " known" are marked by neat stones 
of white marble, bearing in a sunken shield the number of 
the grave, the name of the soldier, his rank, and state from 
which he came. The "Unknown" graves are marked by 
square white stones, bearing on their tops their numbers. 

There are many monuments in the grounds, erected by 
private parties, to mark the resting place of friends or rela- 
tives. The more noticeable one is that placed by the 4th 
army corps. It is a handsome shaft of white marble, bear- 
ng on one side of its pedestal an equilateral triangle — the 
"badge" of the corps — upgn which are the words "Fourth 
Army Corps." Beneath is the inscription, " In memory 
of our Fallen Comrades." On the remaining three sides 
are inscribed the names of the regiments and batteries 
comprising the several brigades of the three divisions of 
the corps. 

The men who lie here sleep well. The cause for which 
they gave their lives was won in war's dread arbitrament. 
Their surviving comrades and friends while rejoicing in this 
fact should put behind them the strife of the past, and look 
to the future as all the states of this great republic, under 
the "Star Spangled Banner ", move forward to their grand 
destiny. 



MEMPHIS & CHARLESTON 

RAILROAD. 



This Old and Reliable Route offers Superior Accomoda- 
tions to those going to or coming from 

ST. LOUIS, 

CHICAGO, 

KANSAS CITY, 

SAN FRANCISCO, 

AND INTERMEDIATE POINTS. 



The Shortest, and by far the Quickest and best Route to 

ALL POINTS IN ARKANSAS AND TEXAS. 

• 

Equipments are all First-Class. 

Through Cars from Bristol to Little Roek, without change. 

Elegant Sleeping Cars on all Night Trains. 



Passengers visiting Lookout Mountain and the Virginia 

and East Tennessee Springs, should be sure to 

call for tickets over this popular Line. 

M. S. JAY, G. T. A. W. I . ROSS, Sup't. 



THE HISTORY OF THE 



ARMY OF THE CUMBERLAND, 



Its Organization. Campaigns and Battles. Written at tJie request of Major-General Geo. 
II. Thomas, chiefly from his private Military Journal, and Official and other Docu- 
ments furnished by him. 

IB~Z" THOS. IB. -VJ^lsT IHIOIRISriE, TJ- S. J±. 



ILLUSTRA TED BT TWENTI -TWO CAMPAIGN AND BA TTLE MAPS, 
COMPILED BY EDWARD RUGER, 

Late Superintendent Topograph icnl Engineer Office, Headq'rs Department of Cumberland. 



TWO VOLUMES OCTAVO, AND ATLAS. 



Price, bound in cloth, $8,00; sheep, library style, $10,00; half morocco, $12,00. 



" Write nothing but the truth.— Maj. Gen, Geo. H. Thomas. 

A most accurate and valuable contribution to the history of the rebellion.— N. T. Sun. 

The Subject-matter is admirable, well arranged, and well digested.— Gen. W.T.Sherman. 

Chaplain Van Home has enjoyed very rare advantages in the preparation of his work.' 
First of all is the fact that General Thomas personally requested him tc write it, in the em- 
phatic words: "Write nothing but the truth; you will contravene received opinions, and you 
must fortifv yourself." This commission, to those who knew the cautious and conservative 
Thomas when alive, carries with it great weight as to the capacity of the author for the task 
for Thomas was by no means one to bestow such entire confidence without full experience 
of a man's character. The result is a very carelul and elaborate history, which may almost 
be said to be the product of Thomas' own brain. — U. S. Army and Navy Journal. 

We hazard nothing in saying that it is by far the most truthful, thorough, and valuable 
contribution to the military history of the rebellion which has yet been written.— Philadel- 
phia American and Gazette. 

It will be the "book of books" on the war of the rebellion.— Maj. Gen. Joseph Hooker. 



Sent by Mail or Express, on receipt of the Price. 

ROBERT CLARKE k CO., Cincinnati, 0, 



■ - - my i mm) 






